Picking a finish for your woodworking project is that final step that can really make a big difference in how the final piece turns out.
General Finishes Water or Oil Based Stain
I really prefer wood that doesn’t need to be stained but if the project calls for stain then I go with a General Finishes Stain. Granted, I haven’t had as much experience using the water based stains as much as the oil based stains and from my limited experience with them they are good.
According to General Finishes they are better than oil stains for a variety of projects and provide a richness in color superior to oil based stains.
They also have the added benefit of having 0 VOC which makes applying them a much more pleasant experience. However I do like the oil based stains and the consistency they go on with.
Since General Finishes are not sold at Hardware stores like Home Depot and Miners many people have not had a chance to try out these stains and have been using MinWax, Zar and Varathane stains. I would recommend the next time your project calls for a stain pick up a General Finishes and compare it with MinWax, for me the results are night and day, the General finishes Gel stain leave a much more consistent stain with far less blotching even on notoriously hard to stain woods like pine.
You will still need a clear coat finish to seal the wood but if your project calls for stain this is the way to go.
Before: Heavy water stains and old finish
After: General Finishes Candlelite and Polyurethane top coat
General Finishes also offers a custom color match system which lets you get any color you want.
PolyUrethane
If I’m not staining wood and I want a protective top coat with good durability, water and stain resistance my go to finish is polyurethane.
For this I like General Finishes Semi gloss wipe on poly. It goes on thin and is easy to wipe on with a cloth. I do generally put between 3-6 coats, but it also goes quickly as it has a fairly quick drying time.
To get the best results, sanding with 2000 grit is recommended to remove any dust that has settled on your piece. I wet sand as it prevents the finish from gumming up the sandpaper and leaving marks on the finish itself. You can also use a super fine 000 steel wool but you will need to wipe off the dust if you choose this method.
I also regularly use Minwax Fast Drying PolyUrethane. This finish also goes on super easy and on a warm day you can get several coats on a piece easily. One downside to the fast drying finish is even if you store a used rag in a plastic bag it tends to dryout in a day or two. The finish is also prone to forming a film in the container if there isn’t a perfect seal.
Polyurethane is a great finish for items like dining tables and coffee tables and anywhere you need the extra water and moisture protection. You can also control the luster or the shininess of the finish by knocking down the sheen with an ultra fine 0000 steel wool or you can get a high gloss mirror finish by applying multiple coats, wet sanding in between coats and finishing with a buffing pad.
RubioMonoCoat
Hard wax finishes are another favorite finish for woodworkers and its no surprise why. They are generally easy to apply, they don’t have the fumes or the smell that oil based polyurethane has and as the name suggests finishes like Rubio monocoat boast a one coat finish.
Tinted Rubio Monocoat functions as a stain a sealer in one. This was sapele wood that needed some extra richness and red hue to match the existing cabinet work.
So what is a hard wax oil? To put it simply hard wax oils are a mix of tung, linseed oil, beeswax or carnauba wax. The wax gives them more weight so there is more buildup on the material vs using a plain tung or linseed oil. Also the wax gives the final finish less sheen than a polyurethane or a straight tung oil finish would. Many people love hard wax finishes for their ease of application, easy maintenance and natural look.
Pro’s:
Easy application
Hand rubbed finish look
Con’s:
Expensive
May not offer the moisture and stain protection that polyurethane offers
Shellac
Shellac is a finish is has gone out of style in more modern times. It is an alcohol based fisnish which means that it does not have the resistance to solvents or alcohol that some of the other finishes do. If you have a china cabinet that doesn’t get used to wine or beer glasses on, shellac is an acceptable finish to use. However if you have a coffee table or a dinning table shellac would not be the finish of choice. Shellac is make from the secretion of the female lac bug. It typically comes from India or Thailand and is sold as solid flakes. The flakes dissolve in denatured alcohol and are applied in this form. In California denatured alcohol is not availble for purchase so unless you have a stash of it mixing your own flakes and alcohol wont be possible.
Custom walnut windowsill with amber shellac finish
However you can buy it premixed normally in two color options. The Clear and the Amber from Bullseye.
Shellac dries super quick, so you can apply multiple coats in a day. It also has timeless high gloss finish when you use a french polish technique. The french polish is a whole separate topic and an art but if you are curious to try it, it is a very rewarding experience.
Pro’s:
Classic transparent high gloss finish
Is not as toxic to breath as some oil based finishes
Easy to touch up
Con’s:
Getting a perfect finish takes practice
Alcohol soluble
Does not provide as much moisture protection as polyurethane
Not suited for tabletops
Tung Oil
Tung oil was one of the first finishes I tried as woodworker and I instantly loved it. It is supper easy to put it on, one coat will give you a moderate protection and a matte finish or you can apply multiple coats and get a finish similar to that of polyUrethane. I think Tung oil is less likely to have as many dust nibs you will have to sand out but if you are going for a high gloss finish it is recommended to wet sand with 1200 or 2000 grit sandpaper to knock down any rough spots.
Finsished with Teak oil a mixture of tung oil and Boiled linseed oil
Wont peel chip or crack